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Light copies on several types of machines
Clean your grid by placing it on a clean sheet of paper, damp it with alcohol, fold the paper, (not the grid), and rub it lightly, redo this procedure until the paper stays clean. Your copy quality becomes better.

Paper Jams  
Paper jams due to moisture are common in the southern states. The solution we have come up with is to add small desiccant packets to the paper trays.

Cleaning Charge Rollers
A good way to clean charge rollers and get some extra life out of them is to use 2001 car polish. This will clean off toner build up and put a new coating on the roller. When you do this, be sure to check SP modes 2-001 and 2-003 and make sure they are set to 16. Them run about 40 to 50 copies to get back the toner density.

Feed rollers etc.
When cleaning feed/pickup rollers, try using eucalyptus oil.  I used to use wd-40 till i tried this stuff and it works perfect. Even better if wiped over with a dry cloth afterwards.  Makes them soft and really grip.  I swear by it now.

Fuser roller cleaning
To clean lower fuser rollers, I use a Scotch-brite-type material that I get at Smart & Final. It is sold in packs of ten pads, and is cheap. Lightly coat a small area with silicone oil and lightly scrub. Move to unused scrub material frequently, as it will fill quickly with the removed crud. Keep oiling, as the oil serves as a mild solvent and lubricates the rubber. Without sufficient oil, the pad's abrasive will begin to bite into the rubber. This process is also useful for fuser inlet guides, but will lightly scratch the metal, so do not scrub crosswise to the direction of paper flow. When the guide is clean, I apply a LIGHT coat of silicone oil. This helps paper flow more easily and delays the build up of the condensed out-gassed gunk.   

Weird random problems
Strange codes, intermittent quality problems, random jams? Of course, check for HV leaks, but also examine the prongs on the line cord. Two or three times a year, I find machines that have been arcing at this location. Clean them up with 320 grit sandpaper, spread the prongs a bit to improve contact, and consider plugging into another outlet. Advise the customer, since the outlet may be compromised.  Hopefully, the outlet isn't behind a 700-pound file cabinet!          

Vertical deleations
I've had success at getting rid of these white streaks by lightly scrubbing the corotrons with a sliver of "Rust Eraser" from the hardware store.

Cookies
Add a little vanilla extract to your cleaning solution (409,etc) Cleans just the same but customers love the cookie smell.

Copier Thermo Fuses
I replace blown thermo fuses for any copier by buying from commercial electronic parts houses or mail order houses. Don't go to Radio Shack, they don't know what a thermo fuse is! The cost is less then a buck apiece, the leads are each (two) 2" long, small crimp connectors are included so they can be piggybacked on top of the blown fuse or use the OEM connectors. These commercial supply houses will send you catalogs for free. They also sell 2 amp PC fuses used in Adler Electronic Typewriters, Triacs, thermo switches, all sorts of resistors and capacitors, board repair kits for damaged etched lines, tools, etc. P.S. If the Copier manufacturer uses a thermo fuse value that’s not readily available, I have success using a fuse slightly higher or lower in value.

Stringing Corona Wires
I found when stringing corona wires, especially ones that have to be cut to fit, lay a few sheets of white paper under your work area... you can see the difference!!  It makes a big difference if you are a tech over 40!!!!

Paper Sensors
Checking paper sensors or any sensor is easy without removing the part. If the copier is turning on ok but jams during an operation, and you suspect a bad sensor someplace, turn machine off, place a sheet of paper or scotch tape to actuate a sensor flag or to block LED to SENSOR path and turn on the machine. If the machine indicates a jam then that sensor is ok. Do this on all visible sensors. Also check for sticky sensor flags.

Platen/Rubber Parts Cleaning
Lacquer thinner is an excellent cleaner for platens and other rubber parts as long as it is not used on plastic. Dries quickly and will remove ink and crud that clogs the pores from the rubber rollers.

Uneven Copy
If the copier is not on a level surface then the toner will travel to the lowest side of the developer unit causing dark on one side and light on the other. This is more common on the mono component machines such as Canon.

Removing Liquid Paper
Use Lemon Extract or Trichorothene 1-1-1 will remove liquid paper from typewriter cardholders or from copier body's without marring the plastic.

Lubricants
SILICON BASE GREASES WORK WELL ON THE NYLON AND PLASTIC GEARS. THE GREASE WILL NOT CAUSE THE GEARS TO SOFTEN OR BECOME BRITTLE LIKE OCCURS WITH SOME PETROLEUM BASED GREASE.  AN INEXPENSIVE, EASY SOURCE FOR SUCH SILICON GREASES IS THE FISHING GEAR DEPT. OF YOUR LOCAL SPORTING GOODS STORE OR AUTOMOTIVE STORES.

PICO FUSES
PICO FUSES ARE USED MORE AND MORE ON CIRCUIT BOARDS.  THERE ARE THREE MAIN REASONS THAT THE ARE BEING EMPLOYED BY THE MANUFACTURERS.   FIRST, THEY ARE THE EASIEST TO INSTALL USING ROBOTIC MANUFACTURING.  SECOND,  THE MANUFACTURER CAN INSTALL SMALLER AND MORE SENSITIVE RATING SIZES TO BLOW FASTER TO PROTECT THE BOARDS.   THIRD,  THE PICO FUSES EMIT MUCH LESS HEAT THAN THE MORE ANCIENT GLASS TUBE FUSES.   ALL THESE REASONS SHOULD BE CONSIDERED WHEN A GLASS FUSE IS GOING TO BE SUBSTITUTED IN A PERMINANT REPAIR OF A CIRCUIT BOARD.

Scratched Fuser Rollers
Many a time you get a machine fixed and cleaned up but you know its gonna be hard to collect that bill since you are stuck with a fuser roller with some coating worn off that you have no replacement for. You realize that although you fixed the problem causing the machine to be down, the customer will be happy to remind you of the LINE on his/her copy right around checkwriting time!  I personally have run into this many a time on printers, faxes and copiers.  You want to do your best and leave a clean machine, as well as a fixed one, and that means good copy quality.  Well, if you follow this tip you will be
happy and so will the customer.  I carry a very basic tool to F I X up marred fuser rollers, which is a fairly long term temporary fix.  It is called Teflon Tape. Teflon Tape of the type plumbers use, is HEAT RESISTANT, SUPER THIN and it
is the same material used in many fuser rollers.  TEFLON!    Just get the roll of teflon tape out.  To apply press it on the roller and REVERSE ROLL the roller to wind a section of tape onto it.  Be sure to roll it on so the trailing edge moves away from the copy paper in travel in the nip of the press and hot rollers.   This coating actually eliminates the black lines.  It is heat proof and durable.  Admittedly, it looks a bit strange (the tape is white) but when you explain to the customer that along with the repair you did an extra little something for the fuser roller's life, and saved them the cost of a new roller, you will be  surprised that they will be ever so happy to have saved money and gotten clean copy.  You can even arrange to come back down the road and install a fuser roller at a later date along with their next service.  The Tape is available at plumbing hardware supply houses.   It should cost about 5 bucks for a couple of yards of it.  Very economical.   Oh...you can also use it for its other purpose.  Sealing threads in plumbing installations..(grin)   I hope this gets a sweat beaded forehead out of the office and on his or her way quick!

Locked-Up Fuser Bearings

For pesky locked up bearings, allow a few drops of Marvel Mystery Oil to soak in all around the bearing's circumference for 10-15 seconds. Repeat once more as the bearing breaks loose. This stuff is magic. Also put a drop or two on shafts right where they go into a gummy brass bushings and then manually rotate the shaft a couple of turns. You'll feel a quicker improvement than with regular oils because of it's great penetrating and loosening power. Avaliable on all store shelves with the auto stuff.

CLC Cleaning Blades
Don't use too much powder on CLC cleaning blades. If you do it can pack into nice little blobs and you have cleaning problems. Put it on light and even. Canon has sent out information on the subject.

Corona Cleaning
The best way I found to remove ozone from corona housings is to clean them with water.  Water alone removes the ozone, and a light rub with alcohol helps to evaporate the residual H2O.

Rubber ADF conveyance belts
Some people call them transport belts, others, the big white belt(yellow if you're on a Ricoh). They get filthy and the customer complains, if they only knew what those things cost! If you clean them regularly with 409, Fantastic, Mean Green or Greased Lightning and a Scotch Brite Pad they will last 10x as long. Bad pen marks can be taken out with Right Guard, no kidding.

Checking thermistors
Checking themistors CAN be tricky. If you test it with the heat of your thumb the resistance on you meter should drop slowly. However I have had a couple over the last ten years fool me and take a slow drop or even reverse under fuser heat. Typically a thermistor reads about 5 VDC when cold as it heats up the voltage drops and , typically, the fuser lamp
shuts down when the thermistor drops to aprox. 1VDC. Like I said I have had a couple drop slow and code out leading me to believe I had a bad triac.

Transfer Corona
If you have a transfer corona bleeding because of a crack in one of the end caps, clean it very good(I like to use Lysol Basin, Tub, & Tile cleaner--the foamy stuff).   After it drys, take clear fingernail polish and paint over the crack and let dry.   It can get you out on a pinch if you don't have a replacement out in field.

Tough Spots
I always carry a container of lighter fluid in my tool kit. It works great on those tough spots that just don't want to come out with regular cleaning supplies. Doesn't seem to attact the plastic either.

LIGHT BARRIER LEVERS
SOMETIMES THE LIGHT BARRIER LEVERS THAT RESET WITHOUT SPRINGS ARE TOO LIGHT AND STICK OR HANG UP INTERMITTENTLY.  YOU GET THESE "phantom"  PAPER JAMS.  I USE TINY PIECES OF LEAD TO ADD MORE WEIGHT TO THE COUNTER-BALANCE. MOST GOOD FISH TACKLE SHOPS SELL LEAD STRIPS THAT COME IN A MATCH BOOK. (cost = 1 or 2 DOLLARS) .  YOU CAN CUT OFF A TINY PIECE AND GLUE IT IN THE APROPRIATE PLACE  ON  THE LEVER.   (cut off the piece, DO NOT BITE-OFF) 

CLEANING SWABS
I HAVE FOUND TWO TYPES OF SWABS THAT ARE INVALUABLE WHEN CLEANING THE MIRRORS AND THE CCD CHIP ON FAX AND COPIERS, AS WELL.   ON THE CCD (scanner chip) I USE A DRY FOAM TIPPED SWAB.  YOU CAN FIND THESE IN THE VCR CLEANING SECTION OF MOST ELECTRONICS STORES LIKE RADIO SHACK.  I HAVE ALSO FOUND THAT THE COTTON SWABS WORK BETTER AND LEAVE LESS DUST THAN SYNTHETIC COTTON SWABS.  THEY ALSO ABSORB MORE MOISTURE.

RUBBER PARTS RESTORATION
Deteriorating rubber parts can be boiled in water for 15 minutes which can restore flex and friction. This is an FAA accepted repair on aircaft and sometimes works well. Feed tires can also be sanded with fine sandpaper to remove dry glazed surface material, which can often be done in the machine and lasts a long time.

ANTI SPILL / RECOVERY BLADE REPAIR
When toner spillage is causing copy quality problems try backing recovery blade with scotch tape. After cleaning with alcohol apply tape to the inside of the mylar up to about 1/8 inch below the edge. This will reinforce and straighten the mylar strip. This quick fix should last for several thousand copies giving you time to order the new mylar and keep the machine up and running.

PCQ PROBLEMS
Most PCQ problems can be resolved simply by cleaning the optics: glass, mirrors, and lens. Make sure you open the lens area and clean the 4th & 5th mirrors as well and don't forget to clean behind the lens (inside area). If that doesn't work check the cleaning blade, drum, and don't forget to look at the fuser rollers for any defects or scratches.

HANDY TRIAC
Triac w/ECG P/N 56006 has been very handy item to carry. Have used with 100% success to fix Sharp JX9500/UX2100/FO3300's that display "overheat" error and/or melt down: On AC PSU, right rear. Somewhat challenging but worth the effort. Also fixed a Z-85 or 88 with the E lamp staying on & blowing thermal fuse. Recently also fixed Sanyo 600 :( w/H3.

FILLER MATERIAL
Thought I'd share info on an exellent adhesive/filler repair material. It's called Marine-Tex. Found it real handy on an old boat hull as well as for repairing broken gear. This stuff is TOUGH but you can still sand off any flaws or such. It's a plastic epoxy that set fairly quickly. Comes in grey or white in various sizes. Worth having around.

FREEZING THERMOSTATS
While it may seem like a good idea to reset the the thermal protector by putting it in your freezer, it is not. It will reset but it will be out of its normal tolerances after you do this and will blow quicker in the future. Besides if its in your freezer then you should have one in you customers machine, so why bother? This is a cheap part. Just buy it and do it right.  Now on the other hand if you are out of them at the time, all you need to do is use a can thermo freeze or turn a can of air upside down and you have an instant fix right in the field. When you get your new ones in stock replace it.

DV SENSOR / MISC.
On all copiers, fax and printers, never vacuum a sensor or board unless you are positive that it is a reed switch.Use a blower brush or compressed air. Never vacuum under the developer unit where the sensors lay.

REFURBS
We sell alot of refurb Mitas. One great things about it is the $$$ you can make when they work and look great. We strip down machines , air clean, scrub covers, replace parts, reassemble machines, and then a little furniture polish (just like the Mita manuals say) then sell for beaucoup $. Good luck on your own favorite copiers.

CONTACT GLASS STATIC AND DRYNESS
I found that the use of Rain-ex on contact glass eliminates skewing, static, exit jams associated with all types of Document Feeder Optioned Equipment.

INTERMITTENT PAPER FEED JAMS
Best possible solution for paper feed jams from cassette ports and drawers, usually associated with dirty feed rollers, is to clean these rollers, and any rollers for that matter, with soap and HOT water. Works good, lasts long time.

PLASTIC REPAIRS
Repairing broken plastic pieces such as op panel pegs The use of Super glue mixed with Baking Soda enables a super strong chemical bond to plastic. Caution: You need to act fast, this mix dries almost instantly. Apply super glue first, then sprinkle a little baking soda then join plastic pieces very quickly.


PAPER JAMS
Ever have one of those paper jams where the paper is all folded up?  Ya can't pull the paper out from either side.  I carry a manilla file folder in my tool case.   It is just stiff enough to push the paper on thru.  I just insert it into the paper path and push.  Be sure and follow the natural direction the paper travels or you will be replacing broken sensor arms.

DOC FEEDER
Skewing

I have seen technicians take a document feeder apart and put it back together trying to fix skewing or paper not reaching the stopper plate.  Usually this can be easily resolved with Armor-All.  I carry a bottle in my tool case all the time.  Plus when cleaning the machine it makes plastic dark box covers look brand new.  My customers love the way their machines look after I have gone over them with Armor-All.
BELT SLIPPAGE
If the document feeder belt has become loose and slips on the drive rollers use copier feed roller tape on the drive rollers, this will prolong the replacement.

TOOL CASES
If you are planning to buy a new tool case BEWARE of the kind that has tiny bumps on the surface. This is suppose to be a premium case, when the bumps wear down they flatten out causing sharp edges. This sharp edge catches on your pants as you carry the case and puts pulls in the fabric. If you are going to buy a case make sure it has no more than a wavy surface and that it has feet not only on the hinge side but on the bottom when you lay the case down. This way the bottom doesn't get dirty from the floor and get your pants dirty. Also don't get the case with adjustable seperators in it, they don't stay secure.

OPC'S
Drum shorts caused by OPC film being scraped away can be repaired temporarily. Get some clear nail polish and paint a light coating on area. Will seal drum from shorting at least until you find the cause or until you get a replacement drum.

STEPPER MOTORS
These stepper motors usually used for toner feed and fuser webs  can *sometimes* be repaired in a pinch. Carefully open up the motor by  bending away the little tabs holding it together. Before you lift out  the gears, make notes on how they were arranged as this will speed  reassembly. If any gears have broken teeth, forget it. But, you may  find that the plastic core of the central shaft is sheared. Superglue it  back together and voila! We fixed a FO-3400 toner motor and it's been working just fine!

DOUBLE / MULTIFEEDING
If you have a duplexer that has occassionally feeds two or more sheets   through and replacing the seperator roller (or pad) doesn't help, try  some self-adhesive felt on the moving side guides. That way when they close in to align the paper they'll actually hold back on the stack  just enough to prevent it from pulling more than one sheet. I've used  this most recently on an SF9750 duplexer with excellent success. Where to get the felt? I don't have a part# in front of me, but just   think of some machines that use it elsewhere and order a few pieces. I think we order the felts that Minolta uses on some of its adjustable
cassettes.

PARTS CROSSOVERS
When ordering OEM parts or generic, try to think if there is any crossover with different brands. You may get the same part cheaper from a different manufacturer. For example, Sharp parts are about the most expensive, while Mita parts
are pretty cheap. Well, did you ever notice that the Mita 21-bin sorter (with the stapler on top) and the Sharp 21-bin sorter are both made by Duplo? Yep, and they share 90% parts interchangability. Same with the Minolta AF-1 doc feeder on the EP-4230/4300, the Toshiba feeder on the 2310 style machines and the Sharp feeder on the SF-7800  series. You could save a lot of $$$.

ERRATIC OPERATION

On any machine using Ultrex connectors made by Amp, suspect them when confronted with unusual operations such as things turning on and off at inappropriate times. There are tools available to adjust the pins. Some people file down the harness side but we usually try cleaning them with contact cleaner. This practice has greatly reduced our board repair quantities.

EASY FEED WHEEL CLEANING

To clean feed rollers that are hard to reach, keep alchohol in a spray bottle and spray the top 3rd of the first page in the cassette tray lightly, when the copier tries to feed the page it will skip over the page rubbing off paper dust etc. The alchohol will not harm the copier even if it passes it thru the machine.

LONG FRAGILE PARTS

If your like me and try to cram to much into your vehicle, to the point of damaging those @#!! long fragiles. Sears has a solution a plastic tub that's over 40" long 10" wide and 8" deep and is only $7.99. This baby even has a carrying handle. Damn this will help me get that XEROX 2510 fuser heat rod through a revolving door.

FEED TIRES

If the tire is in good condition, try cleaning with a pen eraser. I also use this eraser to clean corona wires. I have tremendose success on both and I don't have to deal with hazardous fumes from the chemicals.

If the rubber is in good condition I use amonia. It gives them extra grip and also cleans the very well,
But if the rubber is hard and dried out soaking and cleaning them in kero will often bring them back. at least until they can be replaced.

DRUM AND BLADE LIFE

I've tried a few new products from the rechargers bench. Since I recharge my own Xerox cartridges. 1012's to 5046's the first was methuslah brand padding powder I started using this on Canon CLC 200/300 due to the ease that the cleaning blade will turn under. I noticed that the P/R life was extended 50% or better. So I started to use it on all OPC photorecptors. The other product is MJD formula from UHS technologies this is a liquid teflon and polymer resin mixture. I've tested on a well abraded 5046 P/R that I was scraping. I got an additional 25K out of it. I also tested it on 5018 belts and 5012 longlife drums and have gotten at least 2 cycles from each. The only thing that seems to effect the drum after coating is a to the substrate scratch and white deletions. You do have to follow the instructions to the letter. I have not throughly tested this product on all photorecptors but the that I have impressed me. The padding powder is available at Laser Land 1810 738 5800 and the MJD at UHS Technologies (708)381-1605.

CORONA DOPE

I have used TV corona dope for a long time now on corona end blocks and other high voltage areas. Especially the detack end blocks that seem to short themselves. Remove the end block from the aluminum frame and liberally apply corona dope on the end block the the aluminum. The dope becomes hard in a few minutes and your back in business without have to order parts. Very handy. Berny Buta The Copier Doc

MONEY FROM USED CORES

I save all my fuser roller cores, organic drum cores, used drum, seal & heat blades. Most all cores are aluminum (use your magnetic screwdriver, if it don't stick it's worth 50 cents @ pound). I take them to the recycle center monthly & it can worth $20.00 up to $50.00.

CLEANING PADS

I use Scotchbrite pads to clean thermistors, thermal switches, fuser claws and corona wires. Just don't use the one from the fuser section on the corona wires. They also help remove toner stains from transport & heater guide plates.

RECYCLE COILS

When doing a routine service call, Make sure to check the recycle coil in the cleaner unit. Dump and/or vacuum the unit and inspect the shutter. Small pieces of paper (torn when removing jams) can get into recycle unit and block it from exit the machine properly, causing problems down the road. Get into a routine of checking it and minimize repeat service calls.

CLEANING ROUTINE

When you go to a service call get into a routine. Start at the top, clean ADF,then optics, before going into the machine. Dust that is in these areas, will travel down into the machine and if cleaned in reverse will show up after you think you are done cleaning.

CLEANING THERMISTORS

An easy and safe way to clean thermistors is to use a dry erase marker. Just rub it on and wipe it off. The tip is abrasive enough to clean the residue without tearing up the surface.

DIRTY ENVIRONMENTS

If you have a copier in a dirty enviroment...you can keep it cleaner a little longer by putting in a filter on the intake side...i usaully use a filter made for heater/ac units....you can get from any hardware store and they don't make the copier overheat....

MARKETING

One of the marketing routines I use is quite simple. I purchased a contact program and have upgraded to ACT. But the program isn't the tip I couldn't even tell you why I chose ACT over any other program. The tip is to never forget a copier or printer. When I see a copier I make a mental note and often try to get as much Info about the account as possible. When I'm at the computer I will enter this info into my contact program. I will add this to my mailing list and will call a few times. I've had quite a success rate.

MARKETING

Find a point of difference. Something that you do that your competition doesn't. I compete with XEROX they do almost everything well. I don't want to advertise that I'm cheaper. I invented a twenty five point cleaning and inspection. This is something that I do as a routine on almost any call anyway. Like clean & inspect fuser, clean & inspect optics, etc. Put a value on it say $99.95. Then have a nice handout made advertising this 25 point inspection. This is different the big boys do not advertise this. However; this handout should be the best you can afford ,not a fifth generation copy of a home typed orginal. It represents you, the professional. If you are short on cash; barter. Use this as a mailer or cold call handout. Offer a special say $69.95. It works, It really gets you in the door.

FEED WHEELS

Take WD-40 spray it on a rag, wipe all feed tires. This will keep the rubber soft, and pliable. Other chemicals tend to dry out the rubber.

EXTERIOR CLEANING


A great way to clean up a copier's exterior (plastic panels). Use soft scrub mixed with your general cleaner when done. A rub down with Armor All. Makes them look new. Warning since all panels are different please try on the inside of a panel or a small area first.

CONTROL PANELS
For copiers with dark control panels, a little fuser oil on a rag rubbed into the plastic gives the copier a "fresh" look and is just a little something you can do for the customer that makes them feel you went above and beyond the call of duty. Leaving a copier in a clean condition is just like picking your car up from the repair shop and finding out that they washed it for you. It makes you feel good.

FUSER JAMS


To cure fuser jams caused by solid area coverage on lead edge. Try placing Void Tape (a white tape approx. 1/4" wide ) under the lead edge of the platen glass. This will create a blank lead edge.

PAPER FEED AND ELECTRICAL ARCING FIX


Use Permatex silicone windshield and glass seal (part #65-A, found at almost any automotive parts store) to recoat those bald paper feed tires, RDF feed belts and duplexer rollers. Also use this stuff to coat HVT wires to prevent arcing.
PAPER FEED REPAIR PREPARATION:
The key here is cleanliness. Slather the belt or tire with denatured alcohol and be sure to use a lint-free towel or terry-cloth rag to scrub all the toner, white-out and paper dust off. (actually, vodka works best because it's a purer cleaning solvent than denatured alcohol! Remember that during your next happy hour!) Because this Permatex silicone product is a lower viscosity material than other silicone products, you need to apply it sparingly after cleaning. It cures in 24 hours and has a better tack resistance on paper than new natural rubber.
The Down Side:
Requires 24 hours to cure, which means parts removal and broken calls. Requires thorough cleaning of parts.
The Up Side:
Provides a virtually permanent fix that's better than feed tire tape or other silicone products because of the tack resistance of the product. Impervious to paper dust and toner with greatly reduced surface friction wear. Keeps you from buying expensive OEM replacement parts like Canon RDF-1 feed belt P/N FA3-4599 (at $10 per belt x6 ea.), Canon RDF-2 feed roller FA5-5416 (at $40 ea.), or Canon duplexer stacking roller at $35 ea. x4. This also works on any other friction surface that comes in contact with paper on any other product line.
HVT INSULATION FIX
This silicone product is also an effective dielectric insulator for high voltage wires whose insulation is starting to break down because of age.
WARNING: THIS IS A TEMPORARY SOLUTION ONLY, AND SHOULD NEVER BE CONSIDERED AS A PERMANENT FIX. USE THIS TIP TO PROVIDE YOUR CUSTOMER WITH A SAFE AND EFFECTIVE TEMPORARY MEASURE UNTIL YOU CAN PROVIDE A NEW REPLACEMENT HIGH VOLTAGE CABLE. BEFORE PERFORMING THIS PROCEDURE, UNPLUG THE COPIER AND FOLLOW STANDARD GUIDELINES FOR DISCHARGING RESIDUAL VOLTAGE FROM HV COMPONENTS.
After you've identified the HVT wire that's arcing (usually near where the corotron plugs into it's socket or at any point where the wire flexes), thoroughly clean the cable with a DRY RAG.
NEVER use liquid solvents on component connected, in-line electrical wiring in ANY machine.
Smear a small quantity of Permatex 65A on your finger and coat the entire wire's insulation as completely as possible. The machine will be ready for use in 15 minutes.
NOTE: WASH YOUR HANDS AS SOON AS POSSIBLE AFTER COATING THE WIRE. SILICONE MATERIALS USE ACETIC ACID (COMMONLY FOUND IN HOUSEHOLD VINEGAR) AS A CURING AGENT. THOUGH NOT HAZARDOUS TO YOUR HEALTH, SOME PERSONS MAY HAVE SKIN SENSITIVITY TO ACETIC ACID.
This procedure will keep the HVT wires from arcing against the frame until you can get new wires. It saves down-time and gives you an extra margin of time to get new wires. It also prevents more costly parts from failing. NOTE: "THE PARTS DROP" IN NJ SELLS A KIT FOR THIS FOR ABOUT $10.00 WHICH INCLUDES A TINY TUBE OF SILICONE, A LIQUID CLEANER AND A RAG. THE PERMATEX MATERIAL IS LESS EXPENSIVE, COMES IN A LARGER SIZE AND WORKS BETTER.

FAINT COPIES WITH OPC DRUMS

I have found that some technicians are using the oil impregnated towels used to wipe up toner to clean the dust from mirrors. This will cause an oil film on the mirrors. If you can see a blue or yellow sheen on your mirrors first clean them with varsol then isopropal alcohol and finally your regular glass cleaner. Then you should check again for an oil film.


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